CE UNBOUND from the publishers of Compact Equipment

Tricks of the Blade
Techniques for Sharpening Your Plowing Skills
By Jason Morgan

Does everyone know what time it is? Plow Time! That’s right, the kaleidoscope of red, yellow and orange changing leaves are more than just fall eye candy. Like the equinoxes, the change from daylight savings time and inflatable snowmen and Santas on front lawns, the autumn colors are an annual signal for landscapers and hard-working entrepreneurs to ready their plows for winter. For those that are just now hearing the call and for those who are already heeding it, it’s a good time for a how-to plow refresher course.

First thing’s first, before the snow and ice hits, you’ll want to read up on your owner’s manual. Once you’re studied up, it’s time for a little reconnaissanse. While some plow jobs crock up when the snow starts to fly, more often than not, you’ll be on the same warpath snow-covered day after snow-covered day. So go scout out the area. Look for things such as bumper stops and speed bumps, curbs, sidewalk edges, shrubs, water drains, fire hydrants, fences and pipes sticking up from the ground. To prevent damage to the area being plowed as well as to your snowplow and truck, mark any obstructions that will be hard to see when there's snow on the ground.

“Markers or stakes with reflectors should be in position to indicate boundaries of areas to be plowed, location of shut-off valves, catch basins and other hazards. Markers should be at least 3 ft above the ground; higher in areas of deeper snowfall,” says Lou Orazem, technical sales manager for Meyer – a plow manufacturer since 1929. Locate and mark all utilities, outlets, shutoffs, catch basins and possible emergency equipment that must be reached from outside. Figure the square footage of each area and the total area. Especially note areas from which snow will have to be carried, called ‘trapped’ areas.”

Once the area is secure and your enemy, Jack Frost, strikes the first blow, it’s time to launch the plow blade counter attack. Although you’ll be eager to get to work, remember that you have a heavy plow strapped to your trusty stead and you should drive cautiously. Never exceed 40 mph when transporting the plow and angle the blade to the right (toward the curb) to avoid catching a curb or snow bank that could pull your vehicle into it. Also make sure you don’t cover up your headlights by raising the plow too high when in the transport position. And never operate the plow on your way to the jobsite. While you may be motivated by kindness, you never know what obstacles (pot holes, bumps, curbs, etc.) are lying under that fresh sheet of snow. You wouldn’t want to damage your equipment or worse, cause an accident because you didn’t know your terrain.

When you reach your plowing destination and you are ready to plow, keep this one thing in mind -- always plow with the storm. Start plowing when snow is 1 to 4 in. deep, depending upon traffic or other limitations. Heavy wet snow can be very hazardous when just 1 in. is on the ground and accumulations of more than 4 in. can be very difficult to clear.

“Where packed snow or ice must be plowed, it is sometimes necessary to lower the cutting blade to rest directly on the road surface. In that situation, plow in lowest gear for greatest power to the cutting edge. This method also prevents the plow from climbing over the icy surface,” says Orazem. “If plowing very deep snow, 12 in. or more, you may have to plow with the blade partially raised to shear off successive layers of snow until a working area is clear. Then work small bites into the edge. The bite depth should be inversely proportional to the snow depth. A rule of thumb: 6-in. snow may be plowed with the entire blade width; 9-in. snow with 3/4 of the blade width; and 12-in. snow with only 1/2 of the width.”

“In deep snow raise the plow several inches off the ground to shear off the top layer. If you have a Power-V Plow, use the V-position for the first pass. Then change to the Scoop or Angle-position to widen things out. You should push just enough snow with each pass to get the job done efficiently without overloading your equipment,” adds Rick Robitaille, marketing manager for THE BOSS Snowplow.

On the surface, the snow plowing structure seems simple – position, plow and repeat. There are, however, several advanced plowing techniques; the most common two techniques being windrowing and back dragging.

To windrow, make consecutive passes-each time throwing the snow forward and to the side with the blade angled to the left or right side of the vehicle. Continue making passes until it becomes necessary to remove the large windrow built up by consecutive passes. Remove the large windrow by positioning the blade to the straight position if you’re using a straight blade or the scoop position if using a multi-position plow. Continue windrowing until it becomes time to remove the large windrow again. This technique is used to clear large areas such as parking lots, advises Robitaille.

Back dragging is for removing snow from those hard to reach places such as up against a building. To get the job done, raise the blade and drive forward to the building. Lower the blade and then back up while pulling the snow away from the building. You should back drag only two or three truck lengths before turning around. You can then back into the cleared area and push snow forward. Your plow will be more effective when pushing snow than when back dragging over long distances.

Straight-Blades are the proven choice for professionals and homeowners alike. Built with an optimized blade curl that means snow rolls cleanly off the plow.

Angle Position: In this position the blade is angled to either the left or right side of the vehicle. Use this position for windrowing or widening after the first pass.

How to Windrow: With the blade angled to the left or right side of the vehicle, make consecutive passes—each time throwing the snow forward and to the side. This technique is useful to clear large areas such as parking lots.

Straight Position: In this position the blade is positioned directly in front of the vehicle. Use this position for backdragging, removing a large windrow or cleaning up at the end of the job.

How to Backdrag: To remove snow from the edge of a building, raise the blade and drive forward to the building. Lower the blade, then back up while pulling the snow away from the building. You should backdrag only two or three truck lengths before turning around. You can then back into the cleared area and push snow forward. Your plow will be more effective when pushing snow than when backdragging over long distances.

At the end of the job, adjust the blade to the Straight-position and push snow directly ahead—cleaning up any spill off left from previous plowing.

In deep snow raise the plow several inches off the ground to shear off the top layer. If you have a Power-V Plow, use the V-position for the first pass. Then change to the Scoop or Angle-position to widen things out. You should push just enough snow with each pass to get the job done efficiently without overloading your equipment. A good rule of thumb is to use a full blade width for two inches of snow or less, three quarters of the blade for four inches of snow and a half blade for six inches of snow or more.

A V-blade is a multi-position plow that lets you quickly and easily choose from a variety of blade positions including a Scoop, Straight, Angle or V-position—and anything in between.

V Position: In this position the blades are retracted toward the truck. This position is normally used for making the first pass. It's ideal for plowing a lane through deep snow or punching through snowdrifts and hard-packed banks or windrows left by city and county plows.

Scoop Position: This position is used for carrying or controlling the snow—with the blades pushed out to form an inverted V shape. It's most useful for clearing parking lots or other large areas where snow must be pushed straight ahead—and not to the side. It's also useful for cleanup work at the end of the job. You'll find the Scoop-position to be the most useful for many plowing situations. And it's also a great time-saver.

Basic Plowing Tips

• When transporting a plow, position the blade so as not to block the plow headlights or your vision.

• Plan your plowing pattern so that you are driving forward as much as possible.

• Come to a complete stop before shifting from forward to reverse.

• Wait until the transmission engages before accelerating.

• Accelerate slowly, allowing the wheels to grip the road surface for better traction. Avoid spinning the tires.

• To start a pass, start the vehicle in motion. Then drop the blade.

• Whenever possible, back into a cleared area.

• When transporting a plow or while plowing, check the vehicles temperature gauge often. Overheating the engine can be costly. If the vehicle overheats, stop and correct the problem. If overheating occurs while transporting, stop and adjust blade position to allow more airflow to the radiator.

• Always wear a seat belt when plowing and never plow with your head out the window. Hidden obstacles could cause a vehicle to stop suddenly, resulting in personal injury.

• When moving in reverse, don't rely on the vehicle mirrors. Turn around and look where you're going.

• When plowing in dirt or gravel, lower the plow shoes. This will raise the blade so you don't scrape the surface away. When plowing on asphalt or concrete, raise or remove the plow shoes so that you scrape as close to the surface as possible.

• When you're finished plowing, lower the blade to the ground and turn the plow control off for safety. This will also take stress off the hydraulic components.

The best advise is this: once you start, finish the job. Wet snow left in windrows overnight can freeze and turn into tank traps by morning.

Angle Position: In this position the blades are positioned to either the left or right side of the vehicle. Use this position for windrowing or for widening the first pass.

Straight Position: This position is normally used for backdragging—with the blades positioned directly in front of the vehicle. For example, to remove snow from the edge of a building, raise the blade and drive up to the building. Then lower the blade and back up—pulling snow away from the building.

With a little experience, you'll develop your own methods for plowing and learn exactly which plow position to use for each pass.

In deep snow raise the plow several inches off the ground to shear off the top layer. If you have a Power-V Plow, use the V-position for the first pass. Then change to the Scoop or Angle-position to widen things out. You should push just enough snow with each pass to get the job done efficiently without overloading your equipment. A good rule of thumb is to use a full blade width for two inches of snow or less, three quarters of the blade for four inches of snow and a half blade for six inches of snow or more.

One of the most common vehicle problems encountered while plowing is damage to the transmission. Overheating the transmission fluid as well as improper vehicle use, can contribute to the problem.

• Most vehicle manufacturers do not recommend plowing in overdrive. Consult your vehicle owners manual to find out if plowing in overdrive is recommended—and if so, when and how.

• Plan your plowing pattern so that you are driving forward as much as possible.

• Come to a complete stop before shifting from forward to reverse.

• Wait until the transmission engages before accelerating.

• Accelerate slowly, allowing the wheels to grip the road surface for better traction. Avoid spinning the tires.

• To start a pass, start the vehicle in motion. Then drop the blade.

• Whenever possible, back into a cleared area.

• If you have a manual transmission, avoid riding the clutch while plowing.

• After plowing, let the vehicle idle for ten minutes or more to allow the transmission cooler time to cool the transmission fluid.

• If you are plowing often during the season, change your transmission fluid before and during the season. A good rule of thumb is to pull your transmission dipstick periodically and smell the fluid. If the fluid has a burnt smell, you should change the fluid as soon as possible.

• To monitor the heat in your transmission, you can install an inline transmission gauge. Once the temperature reaches 250 degrees, you should let the vehicle idle until the transmission fluid cools to a lower temperature.